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Thread: 1988 trx250r rear brake ?

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    1988 trx250r rear brake ?

    Ok I guess last time I was at the dunes I snapped off half of one brake pad and and jammed of my rear brakes some how and it was like some one was holding the brake lever down and really hard to rotate the rear axle. I ordered up a new rear brake disc and pads and just installed them and the rear brakes seams to still be on because now I can't even turn the rear axle, so I just tried to bleed the rear brake system and I noticed the rear brake foot lever doesn't move much while pumping the brakes, but once you open the rear bleeder and I'm holding the brake foot lever down it then goes all the way down and once you close the bleeder it barely moves and the brakes seam to be stuck. Am I doing something wrong or do I just need a complete new rear brake system?

    thanks for any help

  2. #2
    Pro-X broken1's Avatar
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    When you swapped pads did you have to push the pistons back in? Did they move freely? Is the park brake assembly removed or still on there?
    overkill is an often underrated achievement

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    The pistons were very hard to move and yes have a esr brake block off

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    Pro-X broken1's Avatar
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    If the pistons are hard to move thats most likely your problem because if they aren't pushing out easily with pedal pressure than they aren't going back in when you let off the brakes either. That drag probably built up alot of heat & might of deformed the seals around the pistons. Sounds like a rebuild is in order. Caliper rebuild kits are pretty cheap & easy to install.
    overkill is an often underrated achievement

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    Thank you

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    Pro-X broken1's Avatar
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    @Hawaiiysr gave me some good info that Honda gets their brake rebuild kits from Shindy so you can go directly to the source & save money. This is the place I got the rebuild kits for both the fronts & rear caliper plus both master cylnder rebild kits for my wife's R for under $150: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Shindy-08-55...BXZjnJ&vxp=mtr
    overkill is an often underrated achievement

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    My problem now is I can't get the pistons out of the rear brake caliper

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    Pro-X Hawaiiysr's Avatar
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    did you try air?

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    Yes I did and it didn't even move the pistons, I removed the brake block off and hit that piston with a hammer from the back side until the back of that piston is even with the back of the caliper but I can't even get that one out either

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    Does the pice that goes threw the brake piston that has the pice that goes threw the caliper for the parking brake come all the way out with the piston? I hope that makes sense

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    Pro-X broken1's Avatar
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    I tried air on mine with no luck. Next I used a grease gun on the bleeder valve to get the pistons out. Block off the brake line inlet with a bolt to seal the caliper & fill it full of grease through the bleeder. It works very well just put something in the caliper to keep the pistons from pushing all the way out otherwise one will pop out before the other & than your screwed. I learned that the hard way. Hope this helps.
    overkill is an often underrated achievement

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    I got one piston out but the parking brake piston is stock, I've tried hitting it from the backside and the pice that goes threw the caliper is flush but that piston won't come out

  13. #13
    Pro-X broken1's Avatar
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    It might of mushroomed slightly from hitting it with the hammer. May need to push it back in & file the end of the park brake pin down a little. It's good that you got the other piston out first, it's all downhill from there.
    overkill is an often underrated achievement

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    Ive had to use both methods in the past and broken1 is right on the money (good advise). Be careful with either method, but mostly when using air....had one piston finally pop out with close to lethal force when I thought it was stuck solid

    Good luck with it
    - Jeremy -

    Big Thanks to Pest/ hoppedrap, wont ever forget!!

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    Got both pistons out now just have to order new pistons and a caliber rebuild kit

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